We sailed from
Montevideo through the inner breakwater, then the outer and then
turned to port to follow one of the channels out of the Rio de
la Plata delta toward the open waters of the South Atlantic Ocean.
The views of Montevideo and then the sunset as we sailed eastward
were spectacular and were followed by a lightning display over
southern Uruguay in the distance behind us as the night darkened.
We never did have rain that evening and as we got further from
shore the darkness in the sky deepend and there were myriads of
stars to be seen in the sky, including the band of the Milky Way.
Unfortunately, on a moving ship the light of the stars was still
too faint to allow me to pull off anything that resembled a decent
photo of the southern skies. There was, however, a crescent
moon riding high in the sky and I was able to get a shot of it
over the lighted funnel of the Splendor.
The following
day we were at sea all day and out of sight of land... On
days like that you find a comfortable lounge chair on deck or
on your balcony and just relax, let the cares of life ebb away,
and enjoy the passing horizon or the cloudscapes when there are
clouds. That first full day at sea there weren't many clouds
and hence there wasn't much to photograph but as we sailed further
south after we departed Puerto Madryn that changed and there were
spectacular cloudscales to watch and photograph. Those are
coming...
Our second
night out of Montevideo passed quietly. Before the day dawned
we were sailing west toward the entrance of Golfo Nuevo to the
south of Peninsula Valdes. To the north before you enter
Golfo Nuevo you can see the distant flash of the Punta Delgada
lighthouse. That lighthouse is still manned and the complex
where it stands now has a hotel and restaurant as a result of
increasing ecotourism on Peninsula Valdes which has a huge colony
of Magellanic penguins and another of sea lions. Entering
the mouth of Golfo Nuevo, you pass between the flashes of Faro
Morro Nuevo which stands in an isolated area on the southeastern
point of Peninsula Valdes to the north and the blink of the Punta
Ninfas light to the south.
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Our
route from Montevideo to Puerto Madryn, more or less,
is shown on the image to the left. You can click
any of the maps for a larger view. A view of Golfo
Nuevo showing the positions of most of the lighthouses
is shown below on the left. A close-up view of the
waterfront of Puerto Madry is shown below. The Carvnial
Splendor was too large and to deep of draft to moor at
the shorter pier close to downtown Puerto Madryn so we
were moored to the large industrial pier at the top of
the image directly below. The industrial pier is
associated with the area's aluminum industry and trucks
were continually delivering pallets of aluminum billots
that were being loaded into the freighter Finch Arrow
moored to the north side of the pier.
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A fisheye view
of Puerto Madryn shot from deck 11 of the Splendor is shown below.
The region of Patagonia where Puerto Madryn is located in Chubut
Province is quite aird. In the late afternoon when the winds
picked up from the west it wa amazing how much dust was in the
air over the city. When we were in Puerto Madryn, the town
was quite dusty... when we saw the dust in the air that
evening, we knew why it was such a dusty town.
There is a small lighthouse,
Faro Golfo Nuevo, located a short distance north of the
commercial pier in Puerto Madryn. The light was
built in 1916 and deactivated in 1990. Following
it's deactivation, public outcry saved the light from
being removed by the Argentine Navy. The light is
considered a traditional symbol of Puerto Madryn.
The photograph to the right is from the Faros de la Argentina
website. (Click the photograph to the right to go
to their Spanish language web page for further information
on this light.) The tower is now owned by Municipalidad
de Puerto Madryn.
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The commercial fishing
fleet is moored at the commercial pier that the Splendor
was moored at in Puerto Madryn. It was interesting
to look in across the red hulls of the commercial fishing
boats to the shore where the rusting hulls of derelect
vessels were beached.
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Aluminum ore was discovered
near Puerto Madryn. Hence there is a very active
aluminum industry located in the city. The Finch
Arrow shown to the right and below was moored at the commercial
pier while we were in port taking on a load of aluminum
billets. The stacks of silvery metal on the pier
in the foreground are aluminum billets. Semis rolled
out the pier all day the day we were there hauling loads
of aluminum billets to the end of the pier where they
were loaded into the holds of the Finch Arrow.
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Only a short time
after we departed the pier at Puerto Madryn the pilot
left the Splendor and the pilot boat took him over to
the container ship Alicana Pampas that had been at anchor
off shore all day while we were moored at the commercial
pier. No doubt the pilot would be bringing that
vessel in to the pier to load or unload that evening.
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If one looks carefully
in the photo of the Alancia Pampas above, on the headlands
to the right up near the top of the hill you can see the
square pyramidal tower of Faro en Playa Parana with red
and white daymarking. A close-up photo (Creative
Commons - Alex Dukal) of this light is shown to the right.
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Creative Commons photo - Alex Dukal
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The Maersk Funchal
was also at anchor off of Puerto Madryn as we left.
Again, if you look carefully on the shore above the P&O
Nedlloyd container just forward of the rear crane you
can also see Faro en Playa Parana. The light is
in the red boxed region in the cropped segment of the
photo above shown to the left.
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Continuing further
east on the waters of Golfo Nuevo we next passed the light
at Punto Conscriptos that is shown to the left.
As you sail further
eastward, the land along the south shore of Golfo Nuevo
becomes progressively more barren and arid in appearance,
finally giving way to relatively steep cliffs as you approach
the Punto Ninfas.
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When you finally pass
the headland shown in the center above, Faro Punta Ninfas
finally comes into view, standing atop the tall headlands
overlooking the South Atlantic. Looking back over
the Splendor's stern, the sun was sinking into the waters
of Golfo Nuevo as we slid past the Punta Ninfas light
and out once again into the waters of the South Atlantic...
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